Béisbol!

Ted. My favorite sport is baseball so I was excited to read that opening day for the Oaxaca professional team was on April 12. On Saturday, Judy and I attended the game between the Guerreros (Warriors) of Oaxaca and El Águila (The Eagle - singular) of Vera Cruz. It was very similar to a minor league game in the US, with a few twists. Seats right behind home plate were only $9 each. 

The rules are pretty much the same and the quality of play was very good. This was definitely a family friendly event and there were lots of kids (and grandparents). 

I don’t know if they have a concession stand but beer, soft drinks and every imaginable snack (except hotdogs) were peddled in the stands. Tacos, pizzas, crepes, popcorn, potato chips and popsicles were going fast all night long. 

Being Mexico, music always plays a big part. There was some US rock and lots of Mexican songs for which everyone knew the words. For the 7th inning stretch, the crowd stood, hugged and swayed to a love song called Mi Linda Oaxaca (My Lovely Oaxaca). Again, everyone knew the words and sang loudly about the city they love so much. There were silly games between innings and the Beso Cam (Kiss Cam) was always on the prowl. Whenever we got a hit, the announcer urged us to make some RUIDO!! (noise). Being from Atlanta, we loved it when they did the Tomahawk Chop. I told Judy that apparently it is politically correct here. She reminded me that virtually everyone in the stands had indigenous blood so it must be fine. 

Our homeboys killed the Eagle 13-3 and I proudly wore my Guerreros ball cap as we walked home after a fun night. Too bad we forgot to bring luchero masks!

What do you DO all day?

Judy. We are often asked, when friends learn we're in Oaxaca for almost four months, "But what do you do all day?"  I think they forget that, more than being tourists, we go places to live there for a time, to understand cultures and enjoy a different lifestyle. What do we do? Well, we live.

We go to the grocery store, take our laundry to the laundromat, attend church, walk, read in our apartment, play games, watch television--most of the stuff we do if we're in the States.

But there's more. Life is full here.  Oaxaca offers a plethora of opportunities, and we try to take advantage of those as well. 

The Oaxaca Lending Library offers several options. On Saturday morning, there's an intercambio with Spanish speakers and English speakers helping each other to learn the language. Spanish speakers correct our fledgling attempts, and English speakers correct mistakes the Mexicans make. It's also a great way to meet people. Four years ago I met a young man named Adrian, and we've kept up through Whatsapp over the years. He's recently returned to Oaxaca from Mexico City, and we met up for dinner. 

Adrian and I met at the intercambio

So much happens at the Oaxaca Lending Library

We've attended three lectures at the library, all interesting, but one, by David, really grabbed our attention. He explained how many of the forests here are owned cooperatively by indigenous tribes. Fascinated, we contacted him and arranged to have lunch, resulting in a two-day trip to Ixtlan and its forests and ecotourism program. David and his wife will be in Spain for the next few months, so we shared some of our travel hacks with him. 

Community forest sign

David (far left) and the group he took to Ixtlan

Back in the States, we hike when we can, and the library here sets up several hikes each week to the neighboring countryside and villages. It's how we got to see the Great Tree of Tule as well as beautiful canyons and rugged mountains.

 

Cypress knees in Los Sabinos Canyon

One of many incredible vistas

The Great Tree of Tule

Glorious day in Los Sabinos Canyon

By a strange twist of fate, I discovered that Phil, our grizzled old leader on every hike, taught documentary filmmaking at the University of Denver, and was there at the same time I was getting my MFA! We had a great time tossing out names and places to each other.

Phil and me

On an "Out and About" tour with the library, I visited a gorgeous Xeriscaped garden carved out of an old dump, and only watered from the rain. From there we went to watch a silversmith work his magic, then on to the workshop of a man instrumental in the popularity of alebrijes and fantastically painted animal carvings.

Oaxaca is noted for its food and chocolate, so, in addition to finding the best chocolate drink in town, we explored restaurants. Since we ate lunch out almost every day, we developed a couple of favorites, and got to know some of the servers. I don't know how they feel about us, but we sure like them--and their food.

Food is delicious, but, oh, the smiles!

One of our favorites

Itzel at Humar Seafood Restaurant

There are dozens of museums in town--the Archaeological Museum, Santo Domingo, San Pablo Cultural Center, the Textile Museum, Oaxaca Museum of Contemporary Arts, the Ruffino Photography Museum, and others. Almost all are free, and truly interesting. I spent $35 on a class of Shibori (Japanese tie-dye) at the Textile Museum, and came home with some cool fabrics.

The fabrics drying

My finished products

 

The neighborhoods of the city have their own flavor, and despite being gentrified, are home to some of the most beautiful murals I've seen. Spending a morning or an afternoon walking Jalatlatco or Xochimilco is well worth it. Then you can stop for coffee anywhere or chocolate at Oaxaca en una Taza or Corazon de Chocolate to rest.

We were here this year for Semana Santa (Holy Week), and I really enjoyed watching the processions and visiting the MANY churches in the city.

Templo Santo Domingo

I loved these barefooted women carrying this trono

Speaking of which, on any given Friday or Saturday--or other day, for that matter--there are weddings or just parades through the streets, always fun to watch. And if you go to the shady square, the Zocalo, there is music everywhere.

Quiet afternnon at the Zocalo

And dancing in the Zocalo at night

And we've attended concerts--auditoriums for classical and bars where pop music is played. Furthermore, there are street musicians, good and bad. You catch them all as you head down any given street.

Sacred music concert outside the Cathedral

Theatro Macedonio de Alcalá for Beethoven

Our friends Tony and Leeanne came down from British Colombia, and we spent some time together, eating, drinking, listening to concerts, and catching up.

Steak and wine with Tony and Leanne

There's a baseball team here, the Oaxaca Guerreros (Warriors), so of course we had to attend a game opening week.     

Guerros win!

The beloved Guerros are hugely popular!

You CAN'T come to Mexico and not see Lucha Libre, Mexican wrestling! It was so much fun, we went twice. And the luchadores are always willing to pose.

Want to keep these guys on my side!

As Ted has mentioned, Oaxaca is on the path for the migrants heading to the US. Once a week we help make and hand out sandwiches, and give away toiletry items. It is humbling work. Drew, who manages the kitchen/phone charge station/clothing and toiletry station, asked for small toys and coloring books for the children, "Anything to take their minds off this life." 

Drew in his kitchen

We attend a tiny church here, Holy Trinity Episcopal church. There's not a full-time priest, so retired priests or some on vacation come down to fill in, or Craig (United Church of Christ) or Drew (Lutheran) fill in when needed. We took a couple of the visiting priests with us to Lucha Libre one night! There's a short service, then we fellowship for an hour or so with coffee and snacks. 

Holy Trinity, Oaxaca

And fellowship afterwards

Vi and Sophie, two of our favorite people from Holy Trinity

Tom, one of our acquaintances from church, teaches English in one of the universities here. I spent an afternoon with three of his students touring my favorite museum and having our own little intercambio.

My own private intercambio at a favorite museum

When we were here in 2019, I took a Spanish class and adored my Spanish teacher, Sandra. She and her mother took me for nieves (a type of sherbet) one night, and a couple of days later, I had dinner with her and one of her friends, as well as her 12- and 14-year old goddaughters. It was fun speaking with Sandra and Josua, but I loved talking to the girls.

Sandra and her sweet mom, Julietta

On Tuesdays, Ted plays pickleball, and has really enjoyed the group, some of whom are full time residents (both Mexicans and Gringos) and some who are, like us, short-timers. Ted and I spent some time with one young man from Wisconsin, Sam, who has three passions; food, travel and pickleball.

Ted, Sam (on the left) and friends at pickleball

I practice yoga, and was able to take two classes from my old guru, Tonio, before the regular teacher returned and nearly killed me with dharma yoga. However, I located another great teacher, Joiee, and took her classes for over a month.

Tonio has the best yoga classes in Oaxaca

Claudia, our landlady's rep on site, sees to it that we get our water (ordered weekly) and makes sure any problems are taken care of. Her smile greets us every morning as we leave. 

Claudia at work at the business downstairs

We don't know the name of this abuelita, but she sells fruit on the corner every day. We get all our fruit from her.

The best fruit lady

I splurged and had both a massage and a facial. The woman on the left manages Casa Marla Sabina, and the beautiful Zapotec woman smiling on the right gave me the massage and the facial, using Zapotec herbs.

One day we even went nuts and tried the bar in our working class neighborhood. We survived it. Whew!

Corner bar

So, yeah, we stay busy. And we love Oaxaca, but so does the world, and so, like so many cities the world has discovered, there are problems here caused by overtourism. It's a hard call, because the tourism has, in many ways, enriched the lives of Oaxacanians. Still, water is a problem, and mescalerias and artisan shops have driven out local shops. Yes, we are part of the problem and, I hope, the solution. It's hard to say if we'll be back, as much as we love it. Time will tell. 

Meanwhile, we've had a heckuva ride.

 

Semana Santa, Oaxacan Style

 Judy. Having experienced Semana Santa (Holy Week) in the elaborate style of Andalucía in Spain, I was curious to see how Oaxacanians would honor this holy Catholic observance. Wow! While they have hints of each other, they are quite different.

In Oaxaca, joy and celebration seem to permeate everything everywhere.There was a Carnival parade before Lent, but nothing changed afterwards. Weddings (and this is a spot for destination weddings) held at Templo Santo Domingo call for bands, parades, Indigenous dancers, and mezcal. I thought during Lent, the forty days before Easter, we would see a slowdown, but nothing changed--there were still two or three weddings every Saturday. 

As Palm Sunday approached, a flyer appeared describing the events of the week. Pretty darned quiet. Around the churches, elaborate sculptures made of palms appeared, which were taken to the church to be blessed and, after Palm Sunday, kept at home.

Hotels and restaurants decorated

Elaborate weavings from palms

During the week, several concerts are held in different churches. Music pervades everything here.

"Stabat Mater Doloroso" performed at Basilica de Soledad

As in Spain, the two stars of Holy Week are the Christ figure and the Mary figure. And, as in Spain, Mary gets a great deal of attention. Also, as in Málaga, there are many churches in town.

When I first arrived here, I was surprised that I didn't see more of Nuestra Señora de Guadeloupe. She's definitely tucked in the corner of the dozens of churches, but, like the gold trim in these fancy worship centers, a more elegantly dressed Madonna is called for. You can really see Spanish influence here!

The most prominent, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, is housed in the Basilica that is named for her. She is dressed in black, with gold embroidery attaching 600 diamonds, as well as pearls, to her robe. Her crown is made of four pounds of gold, and a large pearl dangles onto her forehead. This is the Queen of Oaxaca who is paraded through the streets on special holidays. Well, her body double is. Soledad and her diamonds and gold stay behind a window on the altar of the church. She reigns in Oaxaca city.

Nuestra Señora de Soledad (internet image)

Legends of her arrival vary, but basically the story is that in the seventeenth century (about the same time Guadaloupe appeared further north) an unattended burro showed up and keeled over dead. When the people unwrapped his burden, Soledad was there. By the end of the century, a cathedral, now a basilica, was built to house her.

On Holy Tuesday, a Procession of Banners marches from the Basilica to the Cathedral, and back again for an outdoor Mass. Unlike in Spain, the men carrying the banners and reliquaries of the Confraternity of Antequera (Oaxaca) Diocese are often teens, dressed in t-shirts. Several men carry a trono with the suffering Christ figure, and Soledad, His mother, waits for him at the church rather than be paraded with him. This is the first of two main processions of the week. Much simpler than southern Spain.

Altars along the route

Christ figure

Banners after arrival at the Basilica courtyard

Soledad (body double) awaits

To the southwest, in another pueblo of Oaxaca State, is another Madonna, Virgen de Juquila. While Soledad is life-sized, Juquila is much smaller, at 30 centimeters. She was brought from Spain, and the friar who carried her gave the figure to his servant, who set her up in his house, where she was venerated. She was given responsibility for so many miracles that the priest in Amialtepec thought she should be moved to a church. But the church caught on fire, and the only thing to survive was the tiny statue of the Virgen. The villagers tried to clean the burn from her, but she became, like them, and like Guadeloupe, a representation of their own dark skin. Then the priest decided she should be moved to Juquila. But she returned to her little village every time, and was finally allowed to stay. Many people walk a pilgrimage to see her and ask for miracles, and, I'm told, at Easter, the tiny town is packed. Near our apartment there are buses that take the pilgrims to see her. 

Virgen de Juquila (internet image)

Signpost on pilgrim way to Juquila

Buses take pilgrims unable to walk

Both of these Marys have their own feast days, but Easter is a very special time for them.

On Good Friday morning, there is a silent procession of pictures representing Christ's passion, carried from church to church in the Stations of the Cross, then left in the Cathedral.

Banners from different churches and confraternities reside in the Cathedral

Malága's Holy Week means procession after procession for the full week, with the confraternidades in their  costumes and masks, a tradition that goes back to the Middle Ages. 

Màlaga Confraternidad, one of dozens

Only costumed Confraternidad in Oaxaca procession

Here, there are touches of the tradition, but done with dignity in Oaxaca's own way. And there is only one major procession on Good Friday.

And unlike the elaborate tronos of southern Spain,the holy figures and banners here are carried by locals, including children. The Solemn Procession on Good Friday was silent, with only a drum beating. The crowd stood by; not a word was said. It was deeply moving.

Virgen de Los Dolores is carried from San Tomàs de Xochimilco

This young boy and his abuela took turns with this banner

Women from Familia Valera 

Penitentes carry crosses the whole way

As different as the two celebrations are, they speak to the parts of the countries they represent. Spain is in so many ways more formal, but much of its riches came from the silver and cochineal of this corner of Mexico. And in return, Spain has clearly left its mark on this Mexican state. Each, in its own way, honors a sacred event. I feel blessed to have experienced both of them. If you would like to read my post from Málaga, visit the blog archive for April, 2022 titled Semana Santa.